Bethany Hamilton is passionate about surfing. She always has been and nothing could take that away from her, not even what happened on October 31, 2003 at the age of thirteen.

That Halloween morning Bethany paddled out for a surf at her local break on the island of Kauai, part of the Hawaiian Islands. She was surfing with her favorite crew; best friend Alana, Alana’s father Holt and brother Byron. Bethany surfed every day of her life working hard and gaining the respect by other locals who tipped her as one of the future bright stars of women’s professional surfing.

On this day, looking for the best waves, she paddled past the break further out than her friends. As she lay flat on her board, with one arm holding the nose and the other dangling free in the water suddenly, she felt a sharp pain and a ferocious tug on her free arm. Right away she knew what happened. She had been attacked by a shark.

She managed to paddle back toward the shore and calmly call out to her friends for help. They quickly wrapped a tourniquet around her severed arm, while in the water, and brought her back to shore. Once on the beach, already having lost 60% of her blood ,she passed out while waiting for emergency services to arrive.

While recovering in the hospital a media frenzy from across the globe circled around the ‘girl from Hawaii who survived a shark attack’. For some it’s their worst nightmare while swimming or surfing in the ocean, but for Bethany it became a beacon of light to share her message with the world.

Bethany spent her whole life in the water, surfing almost every day since a toddler, while growing up in Kauai. Bethany was an accomplished surfer by thirteen, planning to turn professional and compete internationally. However, after enduring the attack, some thought her career was over before it had begun.

While most wouldn’t dare enter the water again Bethany found it scarier to think about not going back. Less than a month later, with her arm still in bandages, she grabbed her board and headed out.

“I was actually looking forward to it. Being in the ocean was (and is) such a major part of my life that it was harder to think about not going back than it was to get back out there!”, says Bethany. She was competing again by January 2004 and has since gone on to compete professionally and win the 2005 NSSA championships.

She now chases the best waves all over the world and participates in the WQS and WCT comps. Bethany accepts no special treatment and with her talent equal to some of the best female surfers she has a long career in surfing a head.

Her story is told through the documentary Heart of a Soul Surfer available on DVD. (Check out EG.com's Review and win a copy plus autographed print!)



ExplorerGirls.com catch up with Bethany in between surf sessions and ask her a few questions.

EXP/G: How does surfing inspire you? And, why did you choose to compete as a professional surfer?

Bethany: Surfing is exhilarating, relaxing, challenging, always changing, and gives us a chance to experience a wonderful part of God's creation!
I love surfing so much, and it’s already such a big part of my life, so I wanted to try it as a career!

EXP/G: What advice can you offer for women who are scared to surf, but dream of becoming a surfer?

Bethany: Surfing is not a very easy sport, but it’s one of the funnest! It takes time, determination, guts, and practice to overcome your mind’s limits and battles - but it is possible! My advice is to make goals (short and long-term) and do your best to achieve them!

EXP/G: You travel the world surfing…what has been your favorite place to catch some waves and why?

Bethany: I really enjoy Indonesia. I’ve traveled to a bunch of places there and they have some of the most perfect, fun, beautiful, and challenging waves in the world! It’s similar and different enough from Hawaii to where I’m confident and comfortable, but excited and stretched in my surfing.

EXP/G: While you’re traveling the world how do you stay close to family and friends back home?

Bethany: Mainly by email. Phone calls or skype (online chatting/phone) occasionally.

EXP/G: In your DVD you talk about body image and overcoming adversity. What advice can you offer for women who struggle and hold back because of their own body image issues?

Bethany: Body image isn’t very important in the big picture of life. Learn to be happy and find joy in the uniqueness of your body. For me, I recognize that inner beauty is way more important to focus on and I have seen how it shines through outwardly making the most unique looking women radiate with beauty and confidence!

EXP/G: How do you feel about the presence of women in the world of extreme sports? Have you noticed a surge of women participating in surfing?

Bethany: I think it’s awesome that more and more women are pursuing extreme sports; it’s a really hard industry to break into and be successful at as a woman. But it’s slowly getting better and I hope one day women will be more respected and supported. There is definitely more women beginning to be serious at surfing than when my mom was growing up, so I think this generation is really helping to prove that women can be amazing
athletes!!!

www.ExplorerGirls.com / Courtney Crow, Gemma Considine